Milk Products used in Cooking

Indian cooking tastes so good because of the milk products that go into a dish. Dal and several curries are tempered with a dollop of ghee; dishes like karhi, curd rice and many more are cooked with a generous helping of yoghurt; Mughlai gravies and rich, Indian sweets can’t do without a pot of cream; and, milk of course is the lifeblood of several Indian sweets. Roshogolla, sandesh, kheer, kalakand – all are made with lots of milk.

Ghee: Ghee or clarified butter is made by boiling pure, white butter until the clear fat separates. Normally, the fat soldifies into granules, called 'danedar' (seeded) ghee in the north. If stirred continuously while boiling, the ghee becomes a smoother solid, which is considered less flavourful than danedar ghee.

A dollop of pure ghee (from butter) is usually added to paranthas , khichdi(a rice and lentil dish), rice and upama(a porridge made from cream of wheat)or halwa.

Malai: Malai or cream is formed when milk is boiled and cooled. Malai is used in sweets and Mughlai gravies. Malai, milk, and butter have legendary importance in Indian tradition devolving from the pastoral Aryans who measured their wealth in cows. Krishna, the most beloved avatar in the Hindu pantheon, was a celebrated 'butter thief' (makhan chor) as a child.

Yoghurt: Yoghurt, also known as dahi, doi and of course curd is a staple in Indian diet. Yoghurt is eaten plain or as raitas or pachadies or hot chutneys with vegetables and fruit added to it; beaten thin with water and seasoned as a summer drink; added by the spoonful and browned in gravies; steamed with sugar and garnished with sultanas and nuts as a pudding; eaten with rice and rotis. Curd was given religious sanctity as Krishna’s favourite food along with milk and butter.

Spice Secrets

Indian cooking is about an assortment of spices, a fusion of flavours and a certain sensibility and art that goes into the creation of a dish.

Taste and Spices: Indian cooking categorizes foods into six tastes - sweet, sour, salty, spicy, bitter and astringent. This principle explains the use of numerous spice combinations and depth of flavor in Indian recipes.

Several spices used in Indian cooking were used for their medicinal properties as well as the unique flavour that each spice could bring to a dish. Spices were also used for preservation purposes, as refrigeration was not an option in olden times.

Wet spices: Water, vinegar, yogurt or other liquids are sometimes added to the ground spices. This wet mixture is called ‘wet masala’ and is used as a marinade or sautéed in oil before adding the main vegetable or meat so that the delicate flavors of the spices are released in the recipe.

Roasting and grinding spices: Once the whole spices have been dry-roasted and cooled, they are ground into powders to release their flavours with a mortar-pestle or in a mixie.

Storing Spices: Spices degrade quickly if they are exposed to either light or air. Light has a detrimental ‘leaching’ effect whilst exposure allows the essential oils to escape. Therefore, many Indians often use a special spice storage box.

Spice Box: An Indian spice box or masala dabba is an important part of the kitchen. Round in shape and made of stainless steel, a spice box has seven round compartments and a small teaspoon measure which fits in the box. The spice box will have a tight fitting lid and a compact structure to prevent flavours from escaping or mixing. You can fill each of these seven compartments with your favourite spices.

Toasting spices

Have you ever hovered about the kitchen while a family member or friend is toasting spices? Have you ever got hooked on to the aroma that envelops the kitchen in a warm, rich, nutty embrace? Well, I’m not being too flowery or poetic; just mentioning what the aroma of toasted spices is all about. Try roasting a batch of Indian spices in your kitchen and you’ll know what I mean.

• Dry roasting or toasting is a way to boost flavour and improve your cooking. Heating a spice, whether roasting it dry or frying it in a bit of oil, further enhances its flavor, giving the spice a fuller character and a deeper, nuttier flavor.

• Spices have two main oils – the first is an essential oil that gives the spice its aroma; the other is a series of oleoresins or non-volatile oils, which are responsible for the flavour. By dry roasting spices, both oils are released, thus enhancing the flavor and aroma of food.

• Whole spices have four times the shelf life of ground spices because their seed coatings and barks protect their flavors, which aren't released until they are ground or heated. Whole spices work best for dry roasting because ground spices can burn easily.

How to toast spices:

• Heat a wok or heavy frying-pan so its medium hot. Don't add any oil or butter, as this is ‘dry-roasting’. Add your spice or spices. Shake the pan or stir the spices with a wooden spoon as they heat. Remember to keep them moving.

• They're ready when they become highly aromatic and turn slightly darker, which usually takes just a couple of minutes.
  

• You don't want to see any smoke coming off the spices, but when they're getting close to done; you'll begin to hear a tiny popping sound.

• Once toasted, immediately pour the spices out of the pan on to a plate to stop them from cooking further. Let the toasted spices cool, and then grind them.

• They can be stored, tightly covered for a few weeks without losing much of their flavor. With fresh spices, you will notice a big difference in flavor.

Basics of Indian Cooking

If you’re just starting out with Indian cooking, there are a vast number of staples and spices that may confuse you. When I set up my kitchen for the first time and was shopping for staples and spices, I didn’t know which spice to pick up and which one to leave behind. Here is a list to help you sort through the items in a grocery store and choose the ones which you really need to begin cooking a simple Indian meal.

Mistress of Spices:

Powdered Spices:

• Lal Mirch Powder/Cayenne Pepper or chilli powder
• Dhania Powder/Coriander Powder
• Haldi Powder/ Turmeric Powder
• Jeera Powder/ Cumin Powder
• Garam Masala/A spice blend
• Chaat Masala
• Amchur Powder/ Dried Mango Powder

Herbs and Whole Spices:

• Kasoori Methi/ Dried Fenugreek Leaves
• Sabut Jeera/ Whole Cumin Seeds
• Saunf/ Fennel Seeds/Aniseeds
• Rai/ Mustard Seeds
• Kadi Patta/Curry leaves
• Sabut Kali Mirch/ Black Peppercorns
• Laung/Cloves
• Sabut Dalchini/Cinnamon sticks
• Elaichi/Cardamom - Available in three types – black, green and white. Buy just a little of each type.
• Tej Patta/Bay leaves - Use it to neutralize strong odors in cooking.
• Dried red chillies
• Khus khus/Poppy seeds
• Hing/Asafoetida - Store this strong-smelling spice in a tightly closed container as it can easily impart its smell to other spices.
• Imli/Tamarind – These are sold in blocks. Buy a small block to make into chutney.

Must-haves in every Indian Fridge:

• Plain Yoghurt
• Ginger-Garlic paste
• Fresh Coriander Leaves
• Fresh Curry Leaves
  
• Fresh green chillies – Buy a few at a time.

Staples:

• Oil – I like to use vegetable/sunflower and mustard oil. Keep a small tin og ghee for tempering dal and for adding in special dishes.

Dals:

• Masoor/Split red lentils
• Moong/ Split yellow lentil
• Urad/Black gram
• Chana/Large yellow split yellow lentil
• Safed and kala chana/Chickpea
• Rajma/Kidney beans

Flour and Rice:

• Aata or whole wheat flour to make chapatis, parathas and other Indian breads.
• Maida or refined flour for making puris and pastry.
• Channa dal flour used to make pakodi and bajji, also used in curries.
• Rice flour used to make snakes and breakfast items.
  
• Rice – plain rice and Basmati rice for special rice dishes.